Truk Lagoon – Day 1: Welcome to the Wreck Capital of the World

After what felt like an endless journey, we finally touched down in Truk Lagoon. We collected our bags, loaded up the gear and made our way to Blue Lagoon Dive Resort, our home for the next week of underwater adventures.

Mother Nature wasn’t exactly rolling out the red carpet, greeting us with rain on arrival, but thankfully it eased later in the afternoon, revealing the beautiful tropical paradise we’d travelled so far to see.

Once we’d settled into our rooms, it was time for the ritual every diver knows well—assembling dive gear, making sure everything was working perfectly, and getting ready for our first splash of the trip. After a quick lunch we headed out for our checkout dive.

For those who haven’t experienced one before, a checkout dive isn’t just a formality. It’s an opportunity for the dive guides to assess everyone’s buoyancy, air consumption and overall comfort in the water. By the end of the dive they usually know who might appreciate a little extra guidance throughout the week, and who they’re comfortable letting explore more independently.

Not a bad place for a “checkout dive”…

Our first dive was on the legendary Fujikawa Maru.

If there’s one wreck that has become synonymous with Truk Lagoon, this is it. Regularly ranked among the greatest wreck dives on Earth, the Fujikawa Maru is famous for its spectacular coral growth, incredible marine life and unforgettable night dives. Eighty-plus years after she sank, she’s no longer just a ship—she’s an artificial reef bursting with life.

Dropping down onto the wreck never gets old.

The ship’s guns are now draped in colourful soft corals, while schools of reef fish weave through the superstructure as if the vessel has always belonged beneath the sea.

The Fujikawa features four enormous cargo holds, each telling its own story.

Hold One contains hundreds of crushed 44-gallon fuel drums—silent evidence of the cargo she carried when she was attacked during Operation Hailstone in February 1944.

Moving into Hold Two, the history becomes even more surreal. Scattered across the deck are the remains of Japanese Mitsubishi Zero fighter aircraft—fuselages, wings, engines and massive propellers lying exactly where they settled more than eight decades ago.

Hold Three is simply astonishing.

Huge bomb casings litter the floor, alongside what appears to be a complete aerial bomb nearly five metres (around fifteen feet) long and almost a metre across. Standing beside it underwater really puts its size into perspective. It’s difficult to imagine the destruction something like that was designed to unleash.

The bottom of the hold is also covered in heavy machine-gun ammunition and more aircraft components, making it feel more like an underwater military museum than a shipwreck.

The fourth hold contains large cargo containers and heavy industrial equipment, including what appear to be grader buckets or earthmoving attachments. Looking around, it’s impossible not to imagine the absolute chaos that unfolded here during the attack.

Back on deck we explored the impressive bow gun, where I noticed a small manufacturer’s plate still attached. Amazingly, it revealed the gun had been built in 1899—decades before World War II even began.

One of the best parts of diving Truk Lagoon is that every dive reveals something new.

I managed to sneak away from the group for a few minutes to explore sections of the ship we’d bypassed while swimming through the cargo holds. Wandering through passageways and forgotten rooms always leaves you wondering about the sailors who once called this ship home.

One sad discovery was seeing that the large tower where we’d previously completed decompression stops had collapsed during a recent typhoon. It caused significant damage as it fell—a stark reminder that although these wrecks seem timeless, the ocean is slowly reclaiming them. Saltwater, corrosion and storms continue to reshape them year after year. It’s a sobering thought that these ships have rested here since 1944, and they won’t remain exactly as we know them forever.

It’s impossible to dive these wrecks without reflecting on the events that placed them here.

During Operation Hailstone, American carrier aircraft launched relentless attacks over two days and nights, devastating what had been Japan’s largest naval base in the Pacific. Many ships never had a chance to escape. Rescue was impossible amidst the constant bombing.

Swimming through these wrecks brings home the reality of war in a way no history book ever can.

Thankfully, nature has transformed tragedy into something extraordinary.

During our dive we were joined by several curious Giant Trevally patrolling the wreck, a couple of impressive barracuda and countless colourful reef fish that now call the Fujikawa home. It’s amazing to see how life has reclaimed a place born from destruction.

Above the water, the trip is proving just as enjoyable.

The group I’m diving with is an awesome mix of personalities and plenty of laughs already. I’m sure you’ll get to meet everyone over the coming days.

Tomorrow’s Adventures

Tomorrow we’re diving two more of Truk Lagoon’s iconic wrecks—the Shinkoku Maru and the Yamagiri Maru.

The Yamagiri rests on her starboard side in around 30 metres of water and features a huge opening torn through her forward starboard section. Inside are battleship shells, transport carts and—believe it or not—even a steamroller. One of the highlights is her remarkably intact engine room, offering plenty of space to explore and photograph.

The Shinkoku Maru, another legendary wreck, was struck by a torpedo that left a massive hole in her port side, providing access into the crew’s quarters and engine spaces. Sitting in similar depths, she’ll give us plenty of bottom time to explore every corner.

There’s far more to tell about both of these incredible ships… but that’s a story for tomorrow.

For now, we wrapped up the day with a few drinks at the bar, a great dinner and plenty of excited chatter about the dives ahead before calling it a night.

After the last 36 hours of travelling, I don’t think anyone will have trouble sleeping.

I genuinely wish everyone could experience diving in Truk Lagoon at least once.

Even if shipwrecks aren’t normally your thing, this place has something for every diver. The history is fascinating, the marine life is spectacular, and every dive feels like stepping back in time.

See you tomorrow where hopefully I can bring you some GoPro footage of the wrecks. Here’s hoping!